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Cartridge Box

The pattern 1857 or pattern 1861, .58 caliber cartridge box, are the preferred cartridge boxes. Both boxes
are close in appearance and overall dimensions, the main difference being the 1861 box has two upright
loops, secured with 1 rivet each, for the waist belt to pass through. Both boxes will have an implement
pouch, of light leather, sewn to the front, an inner cover with end pieces that cover the open end of the box,
and an outside flap with a strap sewn near the bottom. Both also have two loops on the back (in addition
to the loops for the waist belt) for the shoulder belt. Avoid boxes with an additional rivet on the strap used
to close the box and boxes with a US embossed on the outside flap as both of these items were added in
1864 and are inappropriate for an early war impression.

Cartridge Box Shoulder Belt

Regulations call for the Cartridge Box Belt to be 2.25 inches wide, and 55.5 inches in length excluding
the ends which are .875 inch wide and 4.25 inches long. These narrow ends allow the shoulder belt to
be buckled to the cartridge box.

Cartridge Box Plate

The Box plate is a brass oval, 3.5 inches long by 2.2 inches high with a raised U. S. There are two metal
eyes on the back which are used to secure the plate to the front of the box.

Cartridge Box Belt Plate

The shoulder belt plate is a brass circle, 2.5 inches in diameter with a raised Eagle. As with the belt plate
there are two metal eyes on the back which are used to secure the plate to the front of the shoulder belt.

Cartridge Box Tins

Correct tins will have a single lower compartment and a divided upper compartment. The lower is meant
to hold an arsenal pack of 10 .58 caliber rounds and a tube of 12 percussion caps. The upper should be
divided, allowing for 4 rounds on one side and 6 on the other. The edges of the tins need to be turned in to
eliminate sharp edges that could tear the paper cartridges.

NOTE: Cartridge Box tins are mandatory under Fort Tejon guidelines.

To secure either of the above plates:
   First position the plate. For the cartridge box this is about centered on the outside flap, for the cartridge
   box belt plate this about centered on the chest - as worn.
   Second, carefully cut slots in the leather just wide enought to accept the mounting hoops / eyes.
   Third, use a wedge-shaped, strip of leather and run it through the hoops - so that the "wide" end of the
   wedge catches firmly.

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Cap Pouch

Cap pouches should preferably be the 1850 model. This model is 3 inches tall, 3 inches wide and 1.25
inches deep. It will have an inner cover with flaps and 2 loops on the back to admit the standard waist belt.
It is preferred that the belt loops be sewn but loops secured with rivets are acceptable. Proper pouches
will have a strip of sheep skin (with the wool on) glued and sewn at the mouth of the pouch and a nipple
pick secured in a loop inside the pouch.

At the least cap pouches should match the necessary outward appearance - a wool or sheep skin strip
is preferred as it helps to prevent caps from falling out of the pouch.

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Waist Belt

Waist belts should be of an early war pattern. Typically these belts are just under 2 inches in width, 38
to 40 inches in length, and have a leather loop (as a keeper) sewn to the end of the belt. Belts with brass
keepers can be used, but this type of belt is generally thought to have been introduced in 1863 and thus
is after the date of our impression. Recruits who purchase this style of belt should remove the brass keeper.
For Infantry, belts should buckle from the wearer's right.

Belts should have no oval inspector stamps.

Belt plate

The preferred U.S. Belt plate for our impression is the early war plate. This plate has U S in block letters,
is oval in shape and is about 2 1/4 inches by just under 3 1/2 inches. Later war belt plates are smaller
(2 inches by 3 1/4 inches) and more elliptical in shape. The letter style used for the U S stamp on these
later plates is also somewhat different.

Early war Belt plates also used studs (aka "puppy paws") to attach to the belt, whereas later plates used
an arrow-head shaped brass hook.

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Bayonet & Scabbard

See the page on weapons for bayonet and scabbard information.

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The Model 1858, smooth-side tin canteen is the preferred canteen for our impression. Canteens with
concentric rings, know as "bulls-eye" canteens are also acceptable. The canteen should be made of tin
with a pewter spout, but if a stainless-steel canteen is purchased it MUST be covered. Canteen straps
can be made either of leather (russet in color), cotton webbing, or of "folded" cotton duck or drill. Corks
can be attached with either a chain (New York Depot) or with appropriate twine or jute (all other supply

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