Following are the steps I take when cleaning my Springfield rifle-musket, either on-site or between events.
These steps are not intended to be a detailed cleaning (I do not remove my lock plate every time I clean
the Springfield).

The following items will be required:
    Hot water
    Cone wrench
    Wiper
    Scraper
    Cloth patches (6 - 8)
    Cone pick
    Bore brush (optional but recommended)
Optional Items
    Abrasive (emory, rotton-stone, ash, etc.)
    "Armory" oil (glycerin)
    Brass brush

First step:  MAKE SURE YOUR WEAPON IS NOT LOADED!

1:    Place a folded patch over the cone and lower the hammer.

2:    Fill the barrel with hot water and let it sit for no more than a minute or so and then pour it out.

3:    Repeat step 2 until the water comes out clean.

4:    Fill the barrel about 2/3 to 3/4 full of water and using a bore brush, attached to the ramrod, run the
       brush up and down the barrel several times to remove fouling caught in the rifling. Pour out the water.

5:    Fill the barrel about 2/3 to 3/4 full of water and using a scraper attached to the ramrod run the brush
       up and down the barrel several times to remove fouling on the breech plug. Pour out the water.

6:    Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the water runs out clear.

7:    A step I take here is to fill the barrel 2/3 to 3/4 full of water, remove the cloth patch from the nipple, raise
       the hammer to the safe position and, with the scraper still on the ramrod, run the ramrod up and down
       the barrel several times. This acts like a piston and forces water out the cone.

8:    Using a cleaning jag or wiper, run 3 - 4 patches down the barrel until they come out clean and dry.

9:    Another step I do at this point is to clean the outside of the cone. Using a brass brush I clean the exposed
       area of the cone, then use the cone wrench to rotate the cone about 1/3 of the way and again clean the
       exposed area. I rotate and clean the cone one more time and then remove the cone for the next step.

10: Using the cone wrench, remove the cone and the clean out screw. When not actually being cleaned, place
       these items in a VERY safe place so that they are not lost.

The following steps are not done in any specific order.

11: Using the cone pick or suitable piece of stiff wire, clean out the inside of the cone.

12: Using the cone pick or suitable piece of stiff wire, clean out the inside of the bolster (aka cone seat) and
       flash channel.

13: Using the brass brush or bore brush, remove any fouling from the flash guard on the cone.

14: If necessary, use patches to dry off these items as well as possible.

15: Put the cone and bolster clean out screw back in place (apply a small amount of oil to the threads of both).

16: Run a patch down the barrel with a small amount of oil on it to coat the inside of the barrel to protect it from
       rust.

17: If there are signs of rust on the barrel remove the ramrod (if needed), then remove the barrel bands, and
       tang screw. Remove the barrel and clean it. This can be done with either an emory cloth, or some oil can
       be applied to a patch and then the patch can be dipped into some ash, emory, or rotten stone (ground
       pumac). Once clean, use a new patch to apply a thin coat of oil to the barrel to protect it from rust. Return
       the barrel to the stock, replace the tang screw (some oil on the threads) and replace the barrel bands.
       When replacing the barrel bands make sure to install them with the U on the side of the stock with the
       barrel band retaining springs.

18: If needed, clean the ramrod and butt plate in the same fashion as the barrel.